When you own a cat there is always the chance that they will take a shot at some of you prized furniture or your carpet. Cat urine is disgusting; it stinks up the entire room and leaves a fat stain. When a cat sprays an area it is worse than a dog throwing up and harder to clean thoroughly.

If this is the first time your cat has gone inside the house and they are already litter box trained, you might want to take a quick visit to the vet’s office. Just in case there is a problem that needs to be taken care of. Other reasons include lack of privacy or sudden stress that is placed on the cat.

There are quite a few ways to take care of the annoying mess. You can start by mixing vinegar and water to create a mixture that is perfect for getting rid of the bacteria quickly. Make sure you wipe up as much of the mess as you can before applying, and then rinse with warm water and repeat as much as you need to.

If the stain has been there for a while and has dried then you will want to move to something more powerful. There are rentable wet-vacs, these will clean the carpet by soaking the area with water then sucking up along with the stain. If you are looking for something more permanent, pick up a Bissell, these are perfect for the quick stain clean up.

Use the wet-vac alongside the vinegar, cleaners and importantly the baking soda or other powdered cleaners. If you can combine using all these methods then you might be able to get rid of the stain for good. It is important to completely be rid of the odor, or else your cat will urinate in that same spot.

Sometimes your cat will urinate on furniture with cushions; if this is the case then if you can remove the cover and wash it do so very quickly. If you can’t, then start pulling out the vinegar, cleaner and baking soda. It is best to combine all the methods mentioned above to be most effective.

A place that wouldn’t seem like too much of a problem is urination on hardwood floors. If allowed to sit it will eventually rot out the panels and you will need to replace them. Clean up the mess as quickly as possible using the same methods. If you don’t do this immediately you will have to sand down the area and reseal it.

Don’t wait! Fix the problem right away; having guests over with that horrible smell is embarrassing and sickening. The longer you wait the harder it is to remove the smell entirely. If this is a commonly reoccurring problem then invest in a Bissell and work on figuring out why you are having this problem.

Pamella Neely writes about crate training dogs and how to get around common problems with crate training and raising puppies in general, including what to do on your puppy’s first night home and what to do about puppy biting.

THINGS YOU’LL NEED

1. Cat Shampoo or you can use Mild or Baby Shampoo as an alternative

2. Dry towels

3. Water

4. Your cat

PREPARATION

1. Place a towel in the tub to give your cat good footing. Your cat can get extremely panicked on slippery floor where he cannot get a comfortable footing. Placing a towel in the tub can help him and help you hold him still.

2. Fill at least a bucket of water to rinse your cat. Cats are scared of running water. You want to keep your cat as calm as possible during the entire bath. Pouring small amounts of water to rinse him will do better than rinsing him directly with running water straight from the shower/faucet.

3. Have the water at an ideal temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 deg C). Water that is too hot or too cold can make your kitty upset.

4. Prepare dry towels to dry your cat after the bath session.

STEPS

1. Place your cat in the tub.

2. Gently pour water on your cat or if using a shower, make sure that the water pressure is low. Start washing the head, behind the ears, neck, and work your way down to its tail.

3. Apply an ample amount of shampoo by gently massaging the cat’s fur. Make sure you don’t put shampoo in his eyes and ears or it can really irritate them.

4. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly.

5. If your cat produces an angry gesture such as hissing or growling, calm him by petting him gently and speaking to him in a soft and gentle voice.

6. Place your cat on a dry towel while also gently rubbing and pressing water off his fur.  Use as much towels as needed until your kitty is only damp and no longer dripping wet.

7. Your cat can then dry its fur by himself. Combing their fur is recommended especially for long-haired cats to avoid matting. Avoid using hairdryers as it may burn your cat’s skin.

www.KittenFoundation.org

There’s no question that our cats are full-fledged family members. Their loyalty, their love, and their ability to comfort us are unparalleled. Sometimes, though, their hair or odors can leave an unwelcome footprint in our homes. Just as we clean up the spills made by our kids (or our spouses!), it’s up to us to clean up after our cats. Luckily, there are any number of products that make pet care a breeze.

Cat Litter Boxes

Cats are generally low maintenance pets, but their litter boxes often contribute little to you home decor, and can become a smelly nuisance. Today’s litter boxes, though, can bring a touch of whimsy to your interior design, while their functionality can put an end to messes and odors.

One line of litter boxes comes in an assortment of patterns and colors, from solid silver and solid black, to polka dot, leopard print and wood grain. The litter tray door pulls out, and a metal sifter rake pulls and lifts litter out of the tray for easy cleaning. Another ingenious design has a triangular shape so that you can easily place it otherwise used corner space.

If you want to make cat care even easier, self-cleaning litter boxes are the answer. One style has an internal grill that traps used litter. You simply roll the enclosed litter box on its side and remove the waste tray. Another type takes self-cleaning to the next level by having a slowly but rotating system that quietly but continuously scoops used cat litter into a receptacle. The ultimate litter box is one that automatically flushes cat waste down your toilet. Instead of cat litter, this box uses permanent granules that are washable. After your cat uses the box, the granules are automatically washed, disinfected, and dried. Liquid and any solid waste are flushed down the toilet with fresh water.

Kitty Litter

When it comes to kitty litter, many cats have a preference for one brand over another. But if you start with the right litter or are persistent, you can find kitty litter that can help eliminate odors while keep your cat healthy. One brand of kitty litter on the market not only neutralizes litter box odors, but also changes color if your cat has a urinary tract infection. Given that urinary tract infections can quickly become life threatening, early detection is key. It’s also helpful to have information about a potential infection to give to your veterinarian.

Shedding Tools

Many people who love cats are troubled by allergies, or by the cat hair that clings to furniture and clothes. Products that help with shedding take one of two approaches: either they work at the source of the problem (your furry feline) or they make it a snap to clean up hair off of furniture.

Cats typically shed their undercoat (rather than the hair you see), so a product that helps you remove hair from your pet – a “furminator” of sorts – means you’ll never see it on your couch. These products brush out the dead hair from the undercoat (but don’t cut it), while bringing your cat’s natural oils to the surface. Because this type of product also helps stops over zealous self-cleaning, your cat may be less likely to be bothered by hairballs.

Cat care isn’t difficult, and the great litter boxes, kitty litter, and shedding tools make it even easier!

Learn about chinchilla colors and chinchilla food at the Chinchilla Facts site.

Our cats are full-fledged family members – there’s no doubt about it. Their loyalty, their love, and their ability to comfort us are unparalleled. Sometimes, though, their hair or odors can leave an unwelcome footprint in our homes. Just as we clean up the spills made by our kids (or our spouses!), it’s up to us to clean up after our cats. Luckily, there are any number of products that make pet care a breeze.

Cat Litter Boxes

Cats are generally low maintenance pets, but their litter boxes often contribute little to you home decor, and can become a smelly nuisance. Today’s litter boxes, though, can bring a touch of whimsy to your interior design, while their functionality can put an end to messes and odors.

One line of litter boxes comes in an assortment of patterns and colors, from solid silver and solid black, to polka dot, leopard print and wood grain. The litter tray door pulls out, and a metal sifter rake pulls and lifts litter out of the tray for easy cleaning. Another ingenious design has a triangular shape so that you can easily place it otherwise used corner space.

If you want to make cat care even easier, self-cleaning litter boxes are the answer. One style has an internal grill that traps used litter. You simply roll the enclosed litter box on its side and remove the waste tray. Another type takes self-cleaning to the next level by having a slowly but rotating system that quietly but continuously scoops used cat litter into a receptacle. The ultimate litter box is one that automatically flushes cat waste down your toilet. Instead of cat litter, this box uses permanent granules that are washable. After your cat uses the box, the granules are automatically washed, disinfected, and dried. Liquid and any solid waste are flushed down the toilet with fresh water.

Kitty Litter

When it comes to kitty litter, many cats have a preference for one brand over another. But if you start with the right litter or are persistent, you can find kitty litter that can help eliminate odors while keep your cat healthy. One brand of kitty litter on the market not only neutralizes litter box odors, but also changes color if your cat has a urinary tract infection. Given that urinary tract infections can quickly become life threatening, early detection is key. It’s also helpful to have information about a potential infection to give to your veterinarian.

Shedding Tools

Many people who love cats are troubled by allergies, or by the cat hair that clings to furniture and clothes. Products that help with shedding take one of two approaches: either they work at the source of the problem (your furry feline) or they make it a snap to clean up hair off of furniture.

Cats typically shed their undercoat (rather than the hair you see), so a product that helps you remove hair from your pet – a “furminator” of sorts – means you’ll never see it on your couch. These products brush out the dead hair from the undercoat (but don’t cut it), while bringing your cat’s natural oils to the surface. Because this type of product also helps stops over zealous self-cleaning, your cat may be less likely to be bothered by hairballs.

Cat care isn’t difficult, and the great litter boxes, kitty litter, and shedding tools make it even easier!

Linda Cain at Rain Shadow LLC and Rain Shadow Gardens. All Rights Reserved. Copyright 2007

(NOTE: Article shown above may be linked and circulated freely on web sites, as long as ALL article content, links, author and copyright information remain UNCHANGED in any way whatsoever.)

You should be able to find several indispensable facts about cat litter in the following paragraphs. If there’s at least one fact you didn’t know before, imagine the difference it might make.

People love their pets. In the United States alone (the world’s biggest lover of our feline friends), there are an estimated 75 million pet cats. However, 75 million cats can create one humongous mess. For your cat’s hygiene and the collective safety of everyone in your household, you’ll most likely use cat litter to keep your house clean and dispose of your cat’s waste. Cat litter has been around for the better part of the past century, and it continues to be improved as new materials are discovered or designed to cover the scent and become more efficient in a given volume than previous types of litter. In many ways, it is the single most important foundation of your cat’s health in addition to a proper diet.

From the Origins to Modern Litter

In the first few years after World War II, a man by the name of Ed Lowe designed and sold the first mixture of cat litter to families. He became so successful that his company, built entirely from this one product (and expanded later), was worth half a billion dollars by his death in 1995. That’s how important this product is to families today. At first, sand was primarily used in cat litter, but clay quickly became the standard because of its superior absorbency. Then, clumping cat litter was invented. Cat urine and feces cause the tiny particles to clump together so that it can be easily scooped out and replaced without having to change out all of the cat litter at once.

New advances such as biodegradable and silica gel cat litter promise even more options for cat owners. There are a couple of reasons why cat owners should absolutely consider what type of litter is best for their pet. Cost is a consideration for the vast majority of families out there, so it’s important to keep litter cheap enough for people to purchase. This generally means that litter technological advances are slow and far apart as functioning, cheap products already exist. There simply isn’t a great demand for new types of cat litter, although biodegradable litter was a large concern several years ago.

Cat litter is primarily used to cover up the foul odors associated with fecal matter and urine, and it provides a safe product to handle to get rid of those wastes from your household. However, there are some concerns with the use of litter. Flushing litter down the toilet can introduce the tiny parasite Toxoplasma gondii into the water ways, possibly harming a variety of marine life such as otters and sharks. Also, pregnant women should avoid handling cat litter if possible as T. gondii can harm the early fetus. Also, environmental concerns continue to linger about the estimated 2 million tons of litter that gets deposited in US landfills each year, so further research will be conducted into how to combat these various problems.

There’s a lot to understand about cat litter. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.

How to Clean Dog or Cat Urine Without Harmful Chemicals

One of the worst things a pet owner is faced with is not “number two” but “number one.”  Number two may smell until it’s cleaned, but usually it doesn’t leave lasting odors or stains unless it’s in liquid form.  Even then, it’s easier to deal with in the long term. 

We will talk a lot about cats in this article because they have to urinate inside if you’re using litter boxes and not letting them out to do their business.  Dogs, if they’re trained the way they’re supposed to be, should be going outside.  This method works on any urine, however, including human.

Urine, as with any large volume liquid stain on carpeting, will wick through the carpeting into the pad and onto the subflooring.  It isn’t that most cleaners don’t do the job; it’s just that if they don’t get all the way to every bit of the urine then it can’t work.  This is why some stains appear to be “ghosts” and reappear later—especially when the area is rewetted.  The stain (red wine, chocolate ice cream, whatever) is still in the nap of the carpeting and the padding and only the surface of the carpet is clean.  It can wick back up onto the surface and stubbornly reappear.  The urine cleaning spray recipe outlined later in this article can be used to clean most stains from any colorfast carpeting.

The other issue with urine is that we may clean it sufficiently to make it comfortable for our own noses but dogs and cats have noses that are thousands of times more sensitive than ours.  Pets will tend to remark the same spot over and over eventually leading to ruined flooring and complete replacement of carpeting.  It can also mean replacement of subflooring at considerable expense.  It’s best to act as soon as possible and to keep the stable solution we describe below on hand.

There is good news!  With dollar store ingredients and not a lot of work, most colorfast carpeting can be cleaned and deodorized so that Fido or Fluffy ignore the area.  We will also give you a link to a homemade cleaning product that will actually deter an animal from remarking the area.  We don’t give the ingredients here, but their formula is only $8.95 (at the time this article was written) and is a recipe that you can make over and over again with household ingredients.  We have used this formula in our own home and it is fantastic!  None of the enzyme cleaners available commercially (and for a price) kept the pets from revisiting the area like this formula did.

If you have an animal (especially a cat) that continues to urinate around the house, we cannot emphasize enough how important it is to take the animal to your veterinarian to determine if he/she has a urinary tract infection (UTI).  A cat especially will have pain upon urination with a UTI and will associate this pain with the litter box.  He/she will avoid the litter box and urinate anywhere else.  We had a cat that continued to pee around the house for several months and we finally had to cage her just before we considered re-homing her.  We were at our wits end until a friend at our local no-kill animal shelter told us to have her checked for a UTI.  She had a severe infection.  After a week of antibiotics, she returned to the litter box with a little coaxing and has been a great cat since then. 

Also, spay or neuter your animal.  Male cats will spray foul-smelling urine on walls, furniture and other vertical surfaces to mark territory.  Neutering, especially before maturity, can often stop this.  Male dogs will hike a leg onto almost anything to mark their territories and neutering a dog will often stop this behavior. 

This is off topic of this article, but here is another money saving hint:  If your cat does not have a UTI or has been successfully treated for one and still does not consistently use the litter box, don’t buy the pricey cat litters that advertise that they contain “cat attracting herbs.”  Get an unscented clumping cat litter with a fine grain texture close to sand (where a cat would prefer to dig).  The brand doesn’t matter, but make sure it has a fine grain and no scent.  The scent is for humans, not for cats.  A scented litter to some cats may be as overwhelming to them as the perfume counter at the local department store is to us.  Place 6-8 heaping tablespoonfuls of catnip into your hands and rub the herb over the litter.  Stir the cat litter in with the litter scoop.  This makes the litter box more interesting and your cat will eventually return to it without the catnip.  If you have multiple cats, make sure there are litter boxes for each cat and make sure you scoop it daily.  Some cats are very finicky, but can you blame them?  Would you use a dirty toilet?

We saved thousands of dollars by using the steps below.  We must, however, emphasize that you must test for colorfastness (making sure the dyes in the carpeting do not fade, run or bleach out) by using an inconspicuous corner or the inside of a closet or by using a remnant left when the carpet was installed. 

We are making no guarantees or warranties with this information.  It has been gleaned from multiple sources on the Internet and from trial and error with our own experiences.  Please do not send an email to us telling us that it didn’t work.  It will if you follow the instructions, but since we can’t be there with you to ensure you’re doing it correctly we cannot make any guarantees.  This information is distributed without cost and without guarantee.

Get a gallon of distilled white vinegar that’s at least 5% acidity (some cheaper brands are diluted to 4% acidity and will work, but you would have to dilute with less water).  Also obtain a bucket or second empty gallon container.  Pour ½ gallon of the vinegar into the bucket or other container and add ½ gallon of water.  We keep this labeled in an empty vinegar bottle so that we’re ready to attack if there’s a repeat of four-legged indiscretion on the carpeting. 

If the spot is still wet, blot up as much urine as possible with paper towels or old cloth towels.  Dispose of the paper towels (get them out of the house) and either wash the towels you used or get them to an area where the cats don’t go.  We have a hamper in our laundry room (the only cat free zone in our house) where we keep these until we can launder them.  If they’re on the floor or where a cat can get to them, they will urinate on these.  When you launder the towels, add one cup of white or apple cider vinegar to the wash to neutralize the odor (We don’t use apple cider vinegar in the carpet cleaning recipes because of the color.  It can tend to discolor carpeting and other fabrics whereas white vinegar does not).

Saturate the area with the vinegar and water solution.  Urine will wick out under the carpeting to an area 4-6 times the size of the spot you see on top of the carpet.  So, if you have a four-inch circular spot on the carpeting, you need to wet the area for at least 24 inches around.  It is better to saturate a larger area to ensure it reaches all of the urine than to be stingy with it and have to repeat the process.  A gallon of white vinegar costs less than $2.00 so it’s not wise to try to be frugal here.  If the spot is near the wall or on the wall and has run onto the carpeting, clean the wall with the vinegar water solution and make sure you pour some of the vinegar solution on the baseboard so that it wicks behind that area also.  If the vinegar and other solutions we discuss cannot reach all sources of the urine, it will not work.

Allow the vinegar water solution to remain in place for at least one hour.  Use a wet vacuum or carpet cleaning machine to extract the excess vinegar and water.  If you do not have any of this equipment, place 4 or 5 old towels on top of the area and place a heavy weight on top (a sealed gallon or two of water will work).  Replace the towels as they become damp and repeat this until the towels are no longer wicking up large amounts of moisture.  This can take several days. 

If the urine is dried, add 1 teaspoonful of liquid laundry detergent to the gallon of vinegar and water.  Shake gently to dissolve the detergent.  You don’t want to create bubbles in your solution.  Use a cup of this solution to gently scrub the carpeting with an old toothbrush or a plastic scrub brush until the stain is removed.  If the stain does not come up (it will depend on the carpeting), saturate the area with the vinegar/water/detergent solution and continue as above with a wet stain.  We will give you a stain removal formula that will remove even old urine stains later in this article.

After the carpet is as dry as possible with extraction or the towel method, remove everything from the area and allow it to air dry.  Use a fan on its highest setting to aid in the drying.  This can take up to a week.  If you have dense carpeting or thick padding or both, you may have to pull the carpeting loose to get it to dry.  If it stays damp longer than a week, you risk mildew forming under the carpeting. 

If a urine odor remains after the vinegar water solution above, follow the next steps. 

After the carpeting is dry or only slightly damp, sprinkle regular baking soda liberally over the entire area.  Use one regular sized box of baking soda for an area of 24-32 inches around. 

Prepare 2-3 cups of the vinegar water solution, but add 1 teaspoonful of liquid laundry detergent or liquid dishwashing detergent.  Pour this over the baking soda.  The baking soda will begin to foam and release carbon dioxide (apologies to those who have an earlier copy of this article where we incorrectly stated that oxygen was released).  Work this into the carpeting with your fingers or a brush, pushing the solution around and into the carpeting.  When all the foam has been worked into the carpeting, allow it to air dry.  The baking soda residue can be vacuumed after the carpeting has dried. 

Keep in mind that if you’re smelling urine, the vinegar solution did not reach all the way into the padding and the subflooring.  You can repeat the vinegar water treatment again, but use more solution and saturate a larger area.  Make sure the carpeting and padding dries thoroughly between treatments.  If the carpet or padding stays damp, you can end up with mold or mildew under the carpeting. 

If you do an Internet search for these types of cleaning methods, many will state to sprinkle baking soda on the carpeting and then pour hydrogen peroxide over it.  Peroxide and baking soda together do not react except to form wet baking soda.  The peroxide by itself will eventually release oxygen when it comes in contact with dirt or urine, but not because of the baking soda.  We’ve tried this and have had much better results with the baking soda and vinegar combination or by the use of peroxide with an oxygen-based powder cleaner which releases much more oxygen much more rapidly.

Urine Stain Removal

The following steps use hydrogen peroxide which has a mild bleaching effect.  Do not use it on any surface without testing for colorfastness.  Always use latex gloves when working with peroxide. 

Stains can be removed from the carpeting just as inexpensively.  Again, though, you must test for colorfastness 24 hours in advance.  Use ¼ cup of the hydrogen peroxide on a small and inconspicuous area of the carpeting or use a remnant.  Pour onto a small area and allow it to remain for 24 hours.  If there has been no color fading or bleaching, proceed with cleaning.  Do not spill the following solution on any surface or use it on any surface that has not been tested for colorfastness—including clothing. 

Put on rubber gloves before mixing this solution.  The peroxide can bleach your hands and the alcohol can cause severe drying of the skin.  Keep this solution away from children and do not apply it to pets.  Do not get this in your eyes.

Get one 16-ounce bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide (the kind in the brown bottle in the first aid section of the drug store, grocery store or dollar store.  Do not use the stronger solutions used for mixing with hair coloring) and pour it into a 32-ounce spray bottle.  Fill the spray bottle ¾ of the way with warm tap water.  To this add ½ scoop of oxygen based powder cleaner (“Oxi”  “Oxy Power”  “Awesome Oxygen” and other brands are available everywhere) and two tablespoons of 70% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol).  Do not shake, but gently rotate the bottle to dissolve the powder.  Move quickly to your urine spot as the oxygen cleaning powder and the peroxide will begin to foam and will eventually blow out of the bottle.  Because of this, keep the ingredients on hand but do not mix it ahead of time.  It is only good for about 3-4 hours once mixed.

Spray liberally over the urine spot and scrub gently with a brush or rough cloth (a piece of old terry cloth towel works well).  Most of the stain will not come up right away.  Spray the area liberally again and walk away.  Wait until it dries.  The oxygen powder and the peroxide will slowly bleach the stain out.  Repeat in a couple of hours if necessary.

Dispose of any excess peroxide solution as it will not keep and may cause your plastic spray bottle to blow apart. 

A good deodorizer and deterrent can be made with kitchen ingredients.  It is sold under the name of Pee Away and is a recipe.  Once you’ve bought the recipe (less than $9.00 at the time of the writing of this article) you can make the solution over and over again.  We have even used it on furniture to keep the cats from getting on the furniture.  It works well and lasts for 3-4 weeks before it has to be reapplied.  Go to our website at http://www.castlehillsoaps.com and click on the Pee Away link in the menu.  It will take you to the Pee Away website where you will find more information and ordering instructions.  We highly recommend this recipe!  A 32-oz bottle of this can be made for just a couple of dollars and once mixed it can be kept in a spray container and used as needed. 

Randy Walden is a registered nurse interested in safe and natural living, including natural healthcare. He is active locally in animal rescue and advocacy and he and his partner operate a home-based pet food and products business. Their full time job is caring for their 16 rescued Siamese and Himalayan cats and 4 wonderful rescued dogs. Their odor free home is in Springfield, IL. You may contact them via their website at http://www.castlehillsoaps.com

If you are a cat owner then you will probably be aware of the problem of how to clean cat urine and removing cat urine odours. It’s not just a question of mopping it up and going over it with some warm soapy water, this may seem to clean it up but it is just a quick fix and you will soon have that cat urine smell coming through again.

The main problem of removing cat urine odours and the cat urine itself (especially on soft furnishings and carpets) is that it is usually not detected right away. It’s often not until you get that familiar cat urine smell coming through that you realise that your cat has not been using its litter box, but has been urinating where it should not.

If you do not find any places where your cat has urinated straight away then this is when the problem of that awful cat urine smell begins. If cat urine is allowed to dry it starts to form into crystals, these crystals are what makes the removal of the cat urine smell so difficult. You may think that you have done a good clean up job, but as soon as these crystals become damp or moist then they start to release that smell again. This is why it is so important to know how to clean cat urine thoroughly.

For one way of how to remove cat urine from small or light patches you can make an effective potion using one part distilled white vinegar mixed with two parts warm water. After blotting up as much of the cat urine as possible with paper towels, scrub the affected area with this mixture. Once it has dried go over it again this time with just warm water and then allow to dry thoroughly.

For cleaning old or heavily stained areas where your cat has urinated more than once, (this is very likely, as cats can smell where they have messed before even when you think you have done a good job cleaning it up, and they will urinate there again and again.) I would recommend renting a wet-vac machine from a tool hire store. These machines work like a vacuum cleaner, they force clean water through the carpet and then suck up the dirty stained water back into the machine.

When it comes to how to clean cat urine from upholstery you will have to be a bit more gentle. Dab the affected area with paper towels or a soft cloth to remove as much of the urine as possible. Using another soft cloth go over the area with your vinegar water mix gently rubbing in a circular motion working from the outside inwards. Again rinse with plain warm water and then dry gently with a hand held hairdryer.

Once any soiled area has been thoroughly cleaned and dried, I would recommend using a good quality pet odour neutralizer which you can buy from your local pet store. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid any damage to your carpets or furniture.

These are just a few easy steps to take on how to remove cat urine, and removing cat urine odours. A lot of these accidents could be avoided by potty training your cat, this may sound an obvious answer but you will be surprised just how effective and easy cat potty training can be. Just following a few simple training techniques could save you a fortune on cleaning materials, and of course you will no longer have to put up with that lovely cat urine smell.

Click here if you care for your cat

http://www.buytryreview.com/recommends/cattraining

There are some nasty smells in the world and topping the list would have to be cat urine odor. Really I don’t think there’s much worse than visiting a friend and not being able to enter their house for the foul smell of cat urine, the odor meets you at the door and hits you hard. The stench is in the carpet, the furniture, it’s in the curtains, and it’s up your nose. Someone should really tell this person how to remove cat urine odor.

Cats are creatures of habit. When they find a place to urinate they will return to that same place and continue to urinate there – the fact that it may be your carpet, furniture or curtains really has no relevance to your cat at all. Once your cat finds a place to urinate it is drawn by the smell of its own urine back to that same spot time and again. Cats like the smell of their own urine, they have marked their territory and they’re happy with that.

To stop your cat urinating in the same place you need to remove the smell of cat urine completely, not mask or hide the smell, as it will just come back and so will your cat. It really is simple once you know how and which products to use and more importantly which products not to use. You may think you need a professional remedy for cat urine – but you don’t! You don’t need a cupboard full of cat urine cleaners either. You just need a tried and tested cat urine cleaner

So let’s learn how to get rid of the smell of cat urine.

First We Should Understand the Problem…

• Cats are not big drinkers so the urine is concentrated and very potent and gives the strong cat urine odor.

• Cat urine is made up of several different bacteria strains.

• Urea and Urochrome cause the stains, which can sometimes be invisible.

• Uric acid salts cause the odor by bonding to surfaces.

• Cat urine dries on the carpet and the uric acid forms crystals in the underlay padding. The Crystals are the source of that strong ammonia smelling odor and are also the reason puss returns to that “special place”.

• Cat urine crystals are the hardest part to remove.

• Most household cat urine removers contain ammonia so they are going to make the problem worse not better, your cat will be even more attracted to that same spot to urinate as puss thinks it smells wonderful.

• We need to use a cleaner that will break down the crystals so we can get rid of the cat urine odor.

• Water only spreads the stain and will reactivate the uric acid crystals, reviving old stains and smells.

• Normal cleaners, if they don’t soak the area with ammonia, will mask the odor of cat urine for a short time, but it always returns and so will your cat!

• We need to remove both the stain AND the odor.

How to Clean Cat Urine…

• Soak up the excess cat urine from the area as soon as possible.

• Use a dry cloth or paper towel (I like to use old towels as they are absorbent by nature) – do not wet the area or the urine will spread.

• Blot the area – don’t scrub the carpet – it’s kind of like when you get an ink stain on your clothes, and you scrub it. Does the ink come out or does it spread? Cat urine works the same way in your carpet as the ink. (By the way to get ink out, don’t wet the area or it will set the ink – instead soak it in a bowl of milk – yes I said MILK – and then scrub from the outside of the stain in towards the center, a nail brush is good for this! I just thought I would throw in that tip for you – it comes in very handy when you have kids.)

• Hold the cloth or paper towel over the spot for a while – I find standing on an old towel will absorb a good amount of the cat’s urine quite well.

• Let your cleaning solution soak into the area, again use a dry towel, put it over the urine stain and put some weight on the towel. Put something heavy over the towel and leave it overnight.

• The main objective here is to be eliminating cat urine stains permanently so your cat won’t be tempted back to this spot again.

• You really need to keep your cat away from this area until all trace of the urine odor has gone.

• If your cat keeps going back place some foil over the patch until the smell of the urine has gone.

• You may need to repeat this process until all trace of the urine odor and stains have gone.

What not to use. These are not effective Cat Urine Cleaners…

• Ammonia Might – remove the stains, but it smells too much like cat urine so puss will just keep coming back to the same spot to urinate again and again.

• Water -If used by itself can spread the urine and makes the problem area so much bigger

• Citrus based products – Only masks the smell – doesn’t get rid of it permanently

• Liquid soap – Just doesn’t work – at all

• Bleach – Which smells worse – bleach or cat urine – I think it’s a draw! Plus bleach tends to fade carpet, furniture and curtains

• Carpet shampooing – Only cleans the surface, wont soak down into the underlay padding where the urine crystals are

• Hydrogen peroxide – Only removes the urine odor temporarily – the smell soon returns

• Oxygenated products – Only works on the surface, doesn’t remove the smell from deep down and can cause fading or discoloration in your carpet, furniture and curtains

What to use. How to Choose a Cat Urine Remover…

There are many cat urine cleaners on the market. You’ve probably tried some of them while trying to find how to clean cat urine, and possibly found they don’t work. Why?

The bacterium in cat urine can be very hard to kill, and until you kill the bacterium you won’t be removing an odor. You need an enzymes to remove cat urine. Get rid of the bacteria and you’re one step closer to getting rid of cat urine smell.

There is no big secret on how to select a cat urine remover. You need natural cat urine cleaners. Using a combination of products found in your home. Once you use an all natural cat urine remover, you’ll wonder why didn’t try it sooner.

Author Stef. For more information on How To Select a Cat Urine Cleaner & Clean Cat Urine using your own Home Made Natural Cat Urine Remover,
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